Carretera Austral Day #8 Coyhaique to Vista Hermosa
January 3, 2020
Coyhaique to Vista Hermosa 51.3 Km
Ride Time: 4:45
Pedal Time: 3:27
Tour Total Pedaled 623.3 Km
I had a great night’s sleep at the Hotel Diego de Almagro in Coyhaique. I had forgotten how good a bed feels, and I melted into it. The room was warm so we opened the window. At 7am I awoke to people stirring outside. My mind had been whirling about the things I needed to do. Why had I not aired out my fly or charged my water filter? At 8am our phone rang. Scott’s front pannier was waiting at the reception desk. There are some really good people in this world.
Last night after my shower I had bolted over to Hudson Brewery where enjoyed a four layer hamburger the size of a toaster. They couldn’t bring me pints of their Golden lager fast enough, and I eventually retired back to the hotel.
This morning Scott picked up his pannier at the reception desk, and then we enjoyed the hotel breakfast. I stuffed my pockets with instant coffee packets and sugar.
I dropped off our dirty laundry at Lavanderia Monteaustral and paid a premium for the three hour rush service. I then met Scott, who was walking his bike to Patagonia Cycles. He was surrounded by dogs who were following him, as has become custom. The bike shop was able to fix his tire but they didn’t have presta valve inner tubes.
I rode over to another bike shop, Bicicletas Figon, whose proprietor was wearing a nylon red racing car suit with gray reflector stripes. He had inner tubes with presta valves, however they were either a size too small or a size too big. After going back and forth with Scott and the mechanics from both shops on which size to choose, I chose the 700 x 25/28c tubes. Figon also had front racks.
I returned to Patagonia Cycles with the inner tubes and they were able to fix Scott’s tire. But something was still wrong. The mechanic discovered that his rim was cracked. He would need his wheel rebuilt. Patagonia didn’t have the right size rim, so I rode back over to Figon who did. This rim was the correct size but it was fit for a Schrader valve.
Patagonia Cycles would need a few hours to rebuild Scott’s wheel. Meanwhile my SIM card was empty. I went to the Movistar office and they told me to go across the street to the tobacco and candy Kiosk. I was told that the SIM system was down and I needed to return in half an hour. I returned to the bike shop to get Scott and we set out on foot. We picked up our laundry, and I returned to the kiosk and got my phone service recharged.
We went to Tropera pizza where I had the pizza caprese and a couple of wheat beers. It was now raining outside.
We stopped at the pharmacy to get Scott some antihistamine and then to the supermarket to pick up pasta, oatmeal, and snacks.
Scott’s bike was ready when we returned. However the rear tire went flat the moment Scott loaded it. The mechanic filled the tire again and swore that it would be ok.
Coyhaique is the largest town on the Carretera Austral and the mechanic made it very clear that there were very few services in the south. We would not be able to find tubes with Presta valves. There wouldn’t be ATMs. This would be the last bike shop for the rest of the tour.
We rode back over to Figon to try out the front rack, but it didn’t fit. The proprietor was now burning incense. I bought the largest box patches of I’ve ever seen, and I got one for Scott as well. I also bought two large 29 x 1.75/2.35 inner tubes to compliment the 700 x 25/28cz tubes I’d bought earlier as extra insurance. We headed out of town at 4:30pm.
I pedaled out through the industrial end of town with beautiful nearby rock formations and snowcapped mountains in the distance.
I cycled on tarmac with a strong wind that was coming from the west. At times it was a crosswind capable of blowing a fully loaded touring bike right off the road or into another lane of traffic. At other times it was a tail wind with a wicked kick.
The roadside shrines are quite elaborate here. I’ve seen structures of all variety, which are filled with mementos and candles.
Just south of Coyhaique I passed a police checkpoint stopping all northbound motorists.
Scott had mechanical problems when his chain got wedged between the cassette and the spokes. We worked in the ditch because the wind was so strong. A southbound German cyclist stopped and chatted a bit. We didn’t have the right tool to remove the cassette so Scott had to use brute force and risk breaking the chain or spokes to free the chain. He was able to wrestle it out, but it came out twisted and wonky. He straightened it with my crescent wrench. His gear shifting was effected and would need to be retuned.
The terrain south of Coyhaique was more wide open and expensive with the snowcapped mountains further in the distance. The grass pastures were used for cattle and hay production. Wild geese took an interest in the grass as well.
25 km south of Coyhaique I was greeted with brand new freshly laid asphalt. It was super smooth cycling, but I knew the ripio would be back. At a certain point, the snow capped mountains were no longer in view. The land was expansive the snow capped mountains were no longer in view.
I got a report from Tim, another cyclist posting on Crazy Guy and who is currently ahead of me in Cochrane, that there is road construction south of Villa Cerro Castillo. The road is closed Monday-Friday between 1-5pm. This might time out well for us. Tim also warned of swarms of large flies with hypodermic beaks, that attacked him after Villa Cerro Castillo.
I noticed differences in the terrain. There was no longer rushing water everywhere. The area was wide open, divided with long straight lines of barbwire fencing. It felt reminiscent of
Wyoming.
We stopped at the small village of El Blanco to fill our water bottles and purchase Gatorade, bananas, and chocolate milk.
We had an incredible tailwind, and, although it was getting late, we wanted to get as far as we could before sundown.
Right outside of Vista Hermosa my chain broke on an uphill and gouged a cut into my rear derailer. It was wedged and wouldn’t move. The wind was fierce and it was freezing cold. I first needed to put more clothing on. I began by loosened the derailer to free the stuck chain. Then I fixed the chain break with a master link. Finally I adjusted the derailer. I was lucky how quickly it took. We still had a tail wind and another hour of daylight.
There was a tent icon on the map, but the map tends to be unreliable. We had little daylight left and we needed to find a low spot where we’d be protected by the wind. We snuck into a cow pasture by climbing over and passing our bikes and equipment over a red wooden gate. We selected a lovely area out of view near a stream. Avoiding cow patties, I moved ticks and branches to create a tent site. It was still windy and I set large rocks ontop my tent stakes. I had a fantastic dinner of pasta shells with spicy tomato sauce and parmesan. It was so cold that I had to eat in my tent.
We had arrived at the cow pasture at 9:15pm and I was in my tent by 11:30pm.
Coyhaique to Vista Hermosa 51.3 Km
Ride Time: 4:45
Pedal Time: 3:27
Tour Total Pedaled 623.3 Km
I had a great night’s sleep at the Hotel Diego de Almagro in Coyhaique. I had forgotten how good a bed feels, and I melted into it. The room was warm so we opened the window. At 7am I awoke to people stirring outside. My mind had been whirling about the things I needed to do. Why had I not aired out my fly or charged my water filter? At 8am our phone rang. Scott’s front pannier was waiting at the reception desk. There are some really good people in this world.
Last night after my shower I had bolted over to Hudson Brewery where enjoyed a four layer hamburger the size of a toaster. They couldn’t bring me pints of their Golden lager fast enough, and I eventually retired back to the hotel.
This morning Scott picked up his pannier at the reception desk, and then we enjoyed the hotel breakfast. I stuffed my pockets with instant coffee packets and sugar.
I dropped off our dirty laundry at Lavanderia Monteaustral and paid a premium for the three hour rush service. I then met Scott, who was walking his bike to Patagonia Cycles. He was surrounded by dogs who were following him, as has become custom. The bike shop was able to fix his tire but they didn’t have presta valve inner tubes.
I rode over to another bike shop, Bicicletas Figon, whose proprietor was wearing a nylon red racing car suit with gray reflector stripes. He had inner tubes with presta valves, however they were either a size too small or a size too big. After going back and forth with Scott and the mechanics from both shops on which size to choose, I chose the 700 x 25/28c tubes. Figon also had front racks.
I returned to Patagonia Cycles with the inner tubes and they were able to fix Scott’s tire. But something was still wrong. The mechanic discovered that his rim was cracked. He would need his wheel rebuilt. Patagonia didn’t have the right size rim, so I rode back over to Figon who did. This rim was the correct size but it was fit for a Schrader valve.
Patagonia Cycles would need a few hours to rebuild Scott’s wheel. Meanwhile my SIM card was empty. I went to the Movistar office and they told me to go across the street to the tobacco and candy Kiosk. I was told that the SIM system was down and I needed to return in half an hour. I returned to the bike shop to get Scott and we set out on foot. We picked up our laundry, and I returned to the kiosk and got my phone service recharged.
We went to Tropera pizza where I had the pizza caprese and a couple of wheat beers. It was now raining outside.
We stopped at the pharmacy to get Scott some antihistamine and then to the supermarket to pick up pasta, oatmeal, and snacks.
Scott’s bike was ready when we returned. However the rear tire went flat the moment Scott loaded it. The mechanic filled the tire again and swore that it would be ok.
Coyhaique is the largest town on the Carretera Austral and the mechanic made it very clear that there were very few services in the south. We would not be able to find tubes with Presta valves. There wouldn’t be ATMs. This would be the last bike shop for the rest of the tour.
We rode back over to Figon to try out the front rack, but it didn’t fit. The proprietor was now burning incense. I bought the largest box patches of I’ve ever seen, and I got one for Scott as well. I also bought two large 29 x 1.75/2.35 inner tubes to compliment the 700 x 25/28cz tubes I’d bought earlier as extra insurance. We headed out of town at 4:30pm.
I pedaled out through the industrial end of town with beautiful nearby rock formations and snowcapped mountains in the distance.
I cycled on tarmac with a strong wind that was coming from the west. At times it was a crosswind capable of blowing a fully loaded touring bike right off the road or into another lane of traffic. At other times it was a tail wind with a wicked kick.
The roadside shrines are quite elaborate here. I’ve seen structures of all variety, which are filled with mementos and candles.
Just south of Coyhaique I passed a police checkpoint stopping all northbound motorists.
Scott had mechanical problems when his chain got wedged between the cassette and the spokes. We worked in the ditch because the wind was so strong. A southbound German cyclist stopped and chatted a bit. We didn’t have the right tool to remove the cassette so Scott had to use brute force and risk breaking the chain or spokes to free the chain. He was able to wrestle it out, but it came out twisted and wonky. He straightened it with my crescent wrench. His gear shifting was effected and would need to be retuned.
The terrain south of Coyhaique was more wide open and expensive with the snowcapped mountains further in the distance. The grass pastures were used for cattle and hay production. Wild geese took an interest in the grass as well.
25 km south of Coyhaique I was greeted with brand new freshly laid asphalt. It was super smooth cycling, but I knew the ripio would be back. At a certain point, the snow capped mountains were no longer in view. The land was expansive the snow capped mountains were no longer in view.
I got a report from Tim, another cyclist posting on Crazy Guy and who is currently ahead of me in Cochrane, that there is road construction south of Villa Cerro Castillo. The road is closed Monday-Friday between 1-5pm. This might time out well for us. Tim also warned of swarms of large flies with hypodermic beaks, that attacked him after Villa Cerro Castillo.
I noticed differences in the terrain. There was no longer rushing water everywhere. The area was wide open, divided with long straight lines of barbwire fencing. It felt reminiscent of
Wyoming.
We stopped at the small village of El Blanco to fill our water bottles and purchase Gatorade, bananas, and chocolate milk.
We had an incredible tailwind, and, although it was getting late, we wanted to get as far as we could before sundown.
Right outside of Vista Hermosa my chain broke on an uphill and gouged a cut into my rear derailer. It was wedged and wouldn’t move. The wind was fierce and it was freezing cold. I first needed to put more clothing on. I began by loosened the derailer to free the stuck chain. Then I fixed the chain break with a master link. Finally I adjusted the derailer. I was lucky how quickly it took. We still had a tail wind and another hour of daylight.
There was a tent icon on the map, but the map tends to be unreliable. We had little daylight left and we needed to find a low spot where we’d be protected by the wind. We snuck into a cow pasture by climbing over and passing our bikes and equipment over a red wooden gate. We selected a lovely area out of view near a stream. Avoiding cow patties, I moved ticks and branches to create a tent site. It was still windy and I set large rocks ontop my tent stakes. I had a fantastic dinner of pasta shells with spicy tomato sauce and parmesan. It was so cold that I had to eat in my tent.
We had arrived at the cow pasture at 9:15pm and I was in my tent by 11:30pm.
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